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STEREO PINHOLE PHOTOGRAPHY
Processing the Print
I wanted the processing to be as simple, safe, and non-toxic as possible.
To that end, I decided to use Caffenol as the developer,
which also imparts a pleasing sepia tone to the prints.
The stop bath is simply white vinegar, and the fixer is Kodafix (Ammonium Thiosulfate).
I process the prints in a tank, so I do not need a full darkroom.
The chemicals I use for processing Harman DP paper:
1. Instant Coffee. I use the very inexpensive "Happy Belly" brand from Amazon
2. Washing Soda (Sodium Carbonate)
3. Vitamin C Powder/Crystals
4. White Vinegar
5. Kodak Kodafix fixer
My print processing equipment:
1. One quart clear glass jar
2. Stirring rod
3. 500 mL opaque plastic bottle for Stop Bath
4. 500 mL opaque plastic bottle for Fixer
5. Paterson Super System 4 Multi-Reel 5 Developing Tank
6. Funnel
7. Measuring cup
8. Measuring spoons
9. Homemade tank roller
I use a Paterson Super System 4 Multi-Reel 5 Developing Tank to process the prints.
The tank can process two 5x7 prints at the same time.
The tank contains its own light trap. Once loaded with paper and assembled,
processing liquids can be poured in and out under normal room lighting.
Two strips of adhesive-backed Velcro (the stiff side) are attached to the interior wall
of the tank to keep the sheets in place during processing.
Under a safelight, I insert the two sheets so their edges can butt against the Velcro strips.
Still under safelight, I then assemble the tank.
The central tube is first installed, as it is part of the tank's light trap design.
Then, the top funnel is set in place and rotated clockwise to lock it into position.
It is crucial to ensure the funnel's lower protrusion slides into the central tube.
Failure to do so will result in a light leak.
Once the funnel is clicked into position,
the tank can be handled under normal room lights.
The chart above is my complete Harman DP paper processing recipe
I mix the developer solution in the glass jar per the recipe.
I pour the developer into the tank.
I then firmly press the cap on the tank,
making sure it is sealed well all the way around.
I place the tank horizontally on the roller,
then roll the tank manually for the prescribed time.
When rolling is complete, I pour the developer down the drain.
After following the rinse instructions, I repeat these steps with Stop Bath and Fixer,
rolling the tank for their respective prescribed times.
Stop Bath and Fixer solutions can be returned to their bottles using a funnel.
I use a tap water final rinse for about 1 hour.
When the final rinse is complete, I remove the prints from the tank
and set them on edge on a paper towel to dry.
Drying takes several hours. I usually let them sit overnight.
Do not handle the prints until they are completely dry.
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